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Xieng Khuang’s ancient structures a magnet for visitors Phiavat temple. (File photo Phoonsab Thevongsa)

The ancient stupas and temple ruins to be found in Khoun district, Xieng Khuang province, in the northeast of Laos, continue to be a draw for visitors to the area, and are remnants of the Phuan Kingdom.
These atmospheric structures are located in Siphom village, about 30 km from the provincial capital in Paek district.
Phiavat temple and That Foun and That Chomphet stupas are part of the heritage of Xieng Khuang and have survived the test of time after being built when the Phuan Kingdom, its people and rulers wielded considerable power.

 

These religious structures were built in the ancient Phuan style, and reveal a lot about the architecture and culture of the region at that time.
Phiavat temple lies in the centre of Siphom village and is the largest and oldest temple of the Phuan Kingdom, thought to be built more than 600 years ago.
According to legend, Chao Lankhamkong, who was the king of Phuan at that time, led the people to build this temple when the Phuan Kingdom was at the peak of its power.
In 1874 and subsequent years, the kingdom and Vat Phia were devastated by several wars. The temple was destroyed during Indo China war by foreign troops and now only the ruins of one of the main halls, a great Buddha statue, some pillars, and a few sections of the boundary wall remain.
After Laos finally became master of its own destiny through liberation from foreign domination in 1975, the hall and the Buddha statue were renovated several times while retaining their original form. 
I visited the temple and stupas during a recent trip with a group of media personnel. I found them to be fascinating and steeped in history. 
Today, there are some new buildings set around the old hall which are also designed in the traditional Phuan style.
However, the remains of the hall and the majestic Buddha statue continue to be the main attractions at the temple complex.
People visit the temple every day, wandering through the ruins to immerse themselves in thoughts of days gone by and a lost kingdom.
Devotees pray before the Buddha statue and seek blessings. They believe it to be sacred and to have special powers because it was only slightly damaged by the heavy bombs that rained down during wartime and destroyed other buildings.
That Foun temple is situated away from the centre of Siphom village and not far from Phiavat temple. It has a large and tall stupa believed to contain the relics of Lord Buddha and was built at around the same time as Phiavat. 
According to legend, the temple’s construction was ordered by the 14th king of the Phuan Kingdom, who is believed to have brought Buddhism to the region. That Foun is a sacred structure and its name means the “stupa that contains the remains of Lord Buddha”. To many people, it represents Lord Buddha and is deeply revered.
During wartime, the stupa was damaged and foreign plunderers broke into it to take the jewels that were kept inside. But after the liberation of Laos, local authorities led people to renovate the stupa. It is now in good shape and its original form has been retained.
The stupa is located in a spot that provides a stunning view of the surrounding landscape and this has made it popular with visitors because of its photogenic appeal.
Nearby there are stalls that display and sell local products, food, and traditional costumes, which can be rented for a reasonable fee so that people can dress up and pose for a photo.
Many people visit this stupa to pray, take photos, and take a step back in time to recall a bygone era.
After That Foun, visitors usually move on to That Chomphet, which is located just a few minutes away. This site is largely in ruins because it was severely damaged and has not been renovated. But a large and stately stupa remains largely intact, although the top was destroyed during wartime.
The name That Chomphet means the stupa whose top contains a diamond. But foreign plunderers broke off the top of the stupa and took away the diamond and other gems hidden inside. 
The stupa is located on a hill surrounded by forests and fields and is also a good spot to offer up a prayer and take photographs. 
Xiang Khuang province is 435km north of Vientiane and can be reached by road travel or plane.

By Times Reporters
(Latest Update September 23, 2022)


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