Xaysomboun, a glorious place in winter

The best travel choice in Laos in the cold season is somewhere where you can see the early morning mist as it rises and floats over plains and among hills.
And the best place to view this magical sight is from an elevated viewpoint, where you can stand in silence and gaze in wonder as the mist swirls around green hills.

The central hall in Anongvong district, Xaysomboun province.

The dry season begins in October and in December temperatures drop sharply, when everywhere is dry and not particularly attractive as the brilliant emerald greens of the wet season have faded.
However, last week this writer found a place nestled among hills where it always appears to be green.
Anouvong district in Xaysomboun province is a good place to visit if you want to immerse yourself in the natural world and feel like you have found nirvana.
Last week, the temperature dropped to around 8-10C at night and on some days there was morning drizzle, but the mornings were without doubt the most amazing time to gaze out over the town and marvel at the spectacular views.
It’s been a long time since I had to get up early because the Covid pandemic meant there was no longer any urgency to life, and my usual travels were disrupted.
I got lazy and forgot how beautiful the world is.
But then I escaped from the confines of the capital city and got to the rural town of Anouvong. My first morning there was cold compared to Vientiane and I was reluctant to leave the cosy confines of my bed.
I just want to snuggle up under the big warm blanket, but as the fresh morning scents reached my nostrils I felt compelled to leave my room and step outside.
I opened the window of my room in the guesthouse named Xaysomboun View and found myself looking at a broad painting.
The chilly air swept over me, but I put on my thick jacket and walked up to the highest point so that I could have a fantastic view of the town and the surrounding landscape.
I walked alone up the hill called Phou Hua Lone, which I last visited in 2018. I remembered how vividly green it had been in the wet season.
But although the verdant greenness had disappeared and the area was dry, the hills remained majestic and were now cloaked in gold.
I wanted to stay there for a long time to soak up the atmosphere but I couldn’t find a place to sit because the earth was wet after night-time showers.
I headed up to a new building standing on the top of a hill, which turned out to be the Information, Culture and Tourism Department. At the back of the building was a balcony where the staff could sit and look out over the town. I thought how lucky people were to work in such a place and envied them for having an office in such a spectacular location.
Eventually I took off my jacket and lay down on the ground, gazing around and shaking my head in amazement at finding myself in such an extraordinary place.
This remote location is unknown to tourists, but I witnessed some of the most beautiful sights I’ve ever seen, especially the sea of mist that wreaths through the hills.
Xaysomboun was established in December 2013, becoming Laos’ 18th province. It is located in central Laos and borders Xieng Khuang, Borikhamxay and Vientiane provinces, with Anouvong being the provincial capital.
The views I had were distinctly different, with one scene revealing a detailed picture of the town when the sky cleared and the other making me feel that I was in an open plane when mist obscured the town. Could this be heaven?, I asked myself. From my viewpoint I could seeing small cars running noiselessly along the roads, while birds flew around me and danced and sang in the trees. It felt like they were glad to be alive and were enjoying a wonderful start to the day.
I spent a happy day wandering around the town and visiting the grand central hall and the Lao-Viet Cemetery.
Many people might consider Xaysomboun to be unsafe due to the role it played during the so-called Secret War in the 1960s and 70s, and only a few tourists come here.
But the truth is that this is one of the most peaceful and safe places in Laos. It is rich in scenic splendour because of its rugged landscape and is home to the highest mountain in the country, called Phou Bia.
I was glad to have renewed my acquaintance with this delightful area and am certain to return in the not too distant future.

By Patithin Phetmeuangphuan
(Latest Update February 24, 2022)